Как лучше утеплить пол на первом этаже: как правильно проводится теплоизоляция бетонного покрытия

Утепление полов на первом этаже кирпичного дома. Основные способы теплоизоляции пола в доме

Дата публикации: 03-12-2015

Изоляция пола — процедура, к которой рано или поздно прибегает большинство владельцев собственных квартир, домов или коттеджей. Высококачественная изоляция требуется как для теплых деревянных зданий, так и для железобетонных или каменных конструкций. Обеспечить ее можно несколькими способами. Например, можно выбрать трудоемкую работу по обеспечению изоляции с помощью гранулированного шлака или более современные материалы, которые включают распыление пенополиуретана.

Схема утепления пола.

Как утеплить пол на первом этаже в кирпичном или панельном доме?

При наличии бетонной плиты в качестве фундамента необходимо прежде всего изолировать поверхность снизу, внутри фундамента. Для этого используются пластинки пенопласта или пенополистирола, склеенного специальным клеем (для плитки). Промежутки между слоями теплоизоляционного материала заполняются монтажной пеной. Изоляция и (в панельном доме) осуществляется в следующем порядке:

• обрешетка балок или плит толстым слоем полистирола;
• укладка плит изоляции на пол;
• пароизоляция;
• Слишком грубые железобетонные плиты отделываются с помощью ДСП, листов фанеры или досок;
• Завершающий этап — покрыть пол ламинатом, паркетом, линолеумом и т.д.

Установить широкие пенополистирольные плиты можно не только на бетонном полу.

Так, например, если квартира расположена на первом этаже, то возможно утеплить пол и снизу — из подвала дома. В этом случае вам придется утеплять его потолок.

Если вы живете, например, на самом первом или на каком-то из нижних этажей в панельном доме, то у вас наверняка возникают проблемы с отоплением. Касается это, прежде всего, того, что в помещении практически всегда холодный пол. Соответственно, необходимо принять некоторые меры для его нагревания. Прежде всего, пол должен быть выровнен. Для этого используется бетонная стяжка. При покупке сухой смеси обратите внимание на то, подходит ли данная смесь для организации дальнейшего напольного отопления. В панельных домах пол может быть настолько грубым и неаккуратным, что на его выравнивание нужно потратить довольно много материала. В результате пол может подняться на целых 20 см.

В таких случаях гораздо более эффективной технологией окажется такая установка, при которой пол может регулироваться. Эта технология основана на использовании лаг с болтами или саморезами — регуляторами пола (в нужных местах он или опускается, или поднимается. Между балками для большей тепло- и шумоизоляции можно поместить изоляционный материал.

Там его лучше всего прикрепить с помощью плиточного клея на всю поверхность потолка. Что же касается утепления изнутри квартиры, то оно начинается с того, что пол очищается от предыдущих отделочных материалов. Вам нужно добраться до самой бетонной плиты. На открывшейся чистой и плоской поверхности укладывают пароизоляцию, но можно воспользоваться и обычной полиэтиленовой пленкой, которая должна быть очень плотно натянута. Следует отметить, что не совмещенные стыки между пленкой или фольгой необходимо проклеить с помощью скотча или клея и оставить зазор по периметру комнаты на расстоянии 1 см от стены, чтобы осуществлялась вентиляция. Можно укладывать поверх данного слоя черновой пол из любого материала, предназначенного для этого — доски, ДСП, фанера и любые другие варианты, которыми можно отделать пол. Не стоит опасаться того, что у вас что-то получится неаккуратно, так как все неровности или шероховатости сможет скрыть отделка — декоративное покрытие.

Многие владельцы городских квартир предпочитают жить не ниже девятого этажа. И это их выбор. Но пожилым людям и молодым семьям с детьми такой вариант не подходит, если в доме постоянно не работает лифт. Для первых большая проблема подниматься и спускаться по лестнице, а вторым затруднительно таскать вверх-вниз коляски. Поэтому для такой категории жильцов оптимален первый этаж. Но в этом варианте есть свои недостатки. Они касаются теплопотерь через пол в комнатах. Специалисты говорят о том, что разница температур пола и внутреннего пространства должна составлять пару градусов. Если этот показатель больше, то придется проводить утепление пола первого этажа.

Некоторые технические моменты

Начнем с того, что сделаем одно очень важное замечание. Любой теплоизоляционный процесс лучше всего проводить снаружи жилых помещений. Здесь важно учитывать, что место конденсации влажных паров воздуха будет проходить на границе бетонного основания и утеплителя, что обычно приводит к потере качества последнего. Чтобы этого не происходило, надо утеплитель укладывать за пределами бетонной плиты, то есть со стороны действия низких температур.

Как это можно сделать применительно к полу первого этажа? Многое будет зависеть от того, какой подвал расположен в доме. Чаще всего это техническое помещение с общедомовыми коммуникационными сетями. Температура в нем бывает выше, чем на улице, но она недостаточна, чтобы считаться нормальной. Чтобы провести утепление пола первого этажа из подвала, вам необходимо согласовать свои действия с обслуживающей компанией, то есть получить разрешение на проведение теплоизоляционных работ. Обычно проблем с этим не возникает.

Теперь вам нужно определить по плану дома расположение вашей квартиры. Обязательно отметьте полы мелом или краской, чтобы еще раз не искать их. Остальной процесс достаточно прост. Для этого вам необходимо взять, к примеру, пенопласт и наклеить его с помощью специального клеевого состава на плоскость пола со стороны подвала. Панели устанавливайте плотно друг к другу, а если остаются зазоры, то заполняйте их монтажной пеной. Пенопласт быстро впитывает в себя влагу. И если в подвале влажность достаточно высока, что случается часто, закройте утеплитель полиэтиленовой пленкой, которую прикрепите к потолку тем же клеем.

Но не всегда можно провести процесс теплоизоляции пола на 1 этаже со стороны подвального помещения. А значит, его придется перенести в квартиру.

Как утеплить пол изнутри квартиры

Вариантов утепления немало. Все они отличаются друг от друга используемыми теплоизоляционными материалами и технологией их укладки. Но во всех процессах есть одна операция, от качества проведения которой во многом будет зависеть конечный результат. Это пароизоляция пола на первом этаже. Для чего необходим этот слой?

Схема укладки утеплителя на бетонный пол

Опять-таки возвращаемся к влажному воздуху, который всегда есть и будет в подвальном помещении. Напомним, что место конденсации влажных паров — это граница бетона и утеплителя. А так как процесс переместился в комнаты, то это место также перемещается на поверхность бетонного основания. Если не провести предварительные работы по защите пола, то влага будет скапливаться на полу, что повлияет на качество теплоизоляторов.

Эту проблему можно решить и по-другому, используя влагостойкие виды утеплителей. К примеру, плиты экструдированного пенополистирола. Это отличный материал, который по сравнению с пенопластом более плотный и прочный. Но все равно не стоит рисковать. Уложите полиэтиленовую пленку, ведь расходы на нее невелики.

И еще один момент, на который специалисты обращают особое внимание. Разные материалы отли

90000 How to Insulate Shed Floor: Existing and New Construction 90001 90002 Building a shed and want to keep it cool in the summer and warm in the winter? A friend of mine was turning his shed into a small bunkie for his kids. Since he lives in a cold climate, he wanted to know 90003 how to insulate a shed floor 90004. I told him about several options, and he ultimately ended up lifting the entire structure up to install insulation. 90005 90002 When standing in your shed in the dead of winter, it’s impossible not to notice the chill coming up through your feet.Tons of heat is lost as the cold from the earth sucks whatever warmth your walls and ceiling managed to trap. Insulating your shed floor is the answer. 90005 90002 90003 Insulating a shed floor is straightforward. Do not get distracted by all the fancy insulation products out there — keep it simple and you can do the job in an afternoon. Here’s how: 90004 90005 90012 90013 90003 Remove the flooring of your shed 90004 90016 90013 90003 Put wood blocks under each joist cavity 90004 90016 90013 90003 Each joist cavity should have at least two support blocks 90004 90016 90013 90003 Set up a table saw, or use a handheld jigsaw 90004 90016 90013 90003 Cut XPS rigid foam insulation to fit between your floor joists 90004 90016 90013 90003 Layer insulation flush to the top of joists 90004 90016 90013 90003 Re-install flooring 90004 90016 90041 90042 Types of Insulation 90043 90002 90045 90045 90047 When insulating a shed floor, it is hard not to be overwhelmed by the number of choices available.Eco-friendly products such as lamb’s wool and denim are gaining popularity, but the price point negates their viability for a shed. 90005 90002 Let’s take a look at the different types of insulation available for use in a shed floor, along with the pros and cons each offers when installing in a shed floor. 90005 90051 Fiberglass 90052 90002 90054 90054 Fiberglass insulation is still the most popular insulation on the market, despite some of the itchy drawbacks. It offers a high R-value and cuts well.On top of that, the fiberglass is not expensive. 90005 90002 Insulating shed walls and ceilings with fiberglass is not a bad idea, as some fiberglass insulation comes with facing. Facing covers both sides of the insulation with paper or plastic, which makes it much easier to handle. 90005 90002 If fiberglass is a good choice for ceilings and walls in your shed, then why not your floor? The floor of your shed is the most likely spot that you will encounter moisture. 90005 90002 Whether the moisture is caused by you, the ground, or outside elements, the floor will get wet at some point.Fiberglass does not like water and it causes it to lose R-value. As well, rodents have been known to make nests in fiberglass and I’ve known raccoons to eat it! 90005 90002 If you choose fiberglass for your floor, then you’ll want to seal it tightly on both sides. If you do, you’ll still run the risk of little critters getting in — it’s inevitable. Once they do, it’s hard to get them out. 90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Cheap 90016 90013 Offers high R-value 90016 90013 Comes with optional facing 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 Does not like moisture 90016 90013 Rodents will dig through it 90016 90013 Difficult to handle 90016 90041 90051 Rigid Foam Board 90052 90002 90088 90088 Rigid foam board looks a lot like styrofoam — and some of these products actually are styrofoam.However, the type we are looking at is an XPS foam, which stands for extruded polystyrene. 90005 90002 Rigid foam is great for floors because it does not lose its thickness over time. While batts typically have some elasticity that wears off over time, XPS does not. When cut to fit snug in a space, you can bank on that foam staying there forever. 90005 90002 Foam is also moisture repellant — it will not absorb water. If it gets wet, it will not lose much, if any, R-value. This makes it a great choice for floors.90005 90002 As well, rodents have a hard time making nests in XPS. It can happen, but you will not find extensive networks of mice tunnels like you would in fiberglass or Rock wool. 90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Easy to cut 90016 90013 Moisture resistant 90016 90013 Rigid for life of the product 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 More expensive than fiberglass 90016 90013 Requires more cutting than batts 90016 90041 90051 Spray Foam 90052 90117 90117 Spray foam insulation is an effective, but more expensive, solution for floor insulation in your shed.One of the drawbacks for spray foam is that you need backing for it to adhere to the surface. 90002 If you are installing insulation on a pre-built shed, you can not simply drill a hole in the floor and pump it full of spray foam. Unless you installed sheathing or plywood on the underside of the joists, the foam will have nothing to adhere to. 90005 90002 However, on a new build, spray foam is the best choice for R-value. Spray foam offers the highest efficiency, as there are zero gaps around edges that would allow cold air or moisture in.90005 90002 You can do spray foam yourself, with a kit from a big box store. They are expensive, however, and likely not worth the cost unless you are making your shed into a tiny house or sleep shed. 90005 90002 There are two types of spray foam: closed cell and open cell. The more expensive, two canister spray foam kits at your local hardware store are usually closed cell. 90005 90002 As the name suggests, they have encapsulated air pockets, which resist moisture absorption and provide a vapor barrier for your shed.Use this for your shed floor as the open cell is not durable enough to withstand exposure. 90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Best possible R-value 90016 90013 Moisture barrier 90016 90013 DIY installation 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 Most expensive option 90016 90013 Labour intensive 90016 90013 Not ideal for pre-built sheds 90016 90041 90051 Mineral Wool 90052 90002 90152 90152 Mineral fiber insulation is similar to fiberglass in that it comes in batts and handles much like fiberglass.The benefit of mineral fiber is that it is much easier to handle. 90005 90002 Mineral fiber does not have the itchiness of fiberglass and is also easier to cut. A simple hand or drywall saw makes nice, straight cuts. 90005 90002 Much like fiberglass, mineral fiber does not appreciate moisture. While mineral fiber is made up of crushed rock and other materials, moisture can get trapped in the batts causing them to compress or sag. Compression and sagging result in air gaps around batts and compresses gaps within the batts, reducing R-value.90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Easy to handle 90016 90013 Cost-effective 90016 90013 Provides snug fit between joists 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 Not moisture repellant 90016 90013 Rodents can dig through batts 90016 90041 90042 How To Insulate Shed Floor 90043 90051 Insulating a Pre-built Shed Floor 90052 90002 Chances are you already have a shed that does not have an insulated floor. Whether you bought one from Home Depot already built or you made it yourself, insulating a shed floor often gets overlooked.How do you put insulation in your pre-built shed? 90005 90002 There are a couple of methods to install insulation in your pre-built shed. If you can take the floor off, then insulating from the top is easiest. However, if you can not remove your floor, because it is nailed in or has a finished floor, then you’ll have to go underneath. We’ll take a look at the various methods, below. 90005 90185 How to Insulate a Floor from the Top 90186 90002 Insulating a shed floor from the top is by far the easiest method to insulate your floor.I recommend XPS rigid foam for this installation, as it is the best option for use at or near grade. Here’s how to insulate your shed floor from the top. 90005 90189 90013 Remove the subfloor in your shed. This requires moving everything out of your shed and will be the most labor-intensive part of your install. 90016 90013 Before you install the rigid foam, you are going to need some wood blocks beneath each space between the gaps to ensure the rigid foam does not fall out beneath the shed. While it does fit snug between joists, movement from above may jar it loose.90016 90194 90002 Alternatively, you can nail small scraps of wood to each corner of the joist cavity, at the bottom. These will function as shelves for the rigid foam to sit on. 90005 90197 90013 Next, it is time to measure each joist cavity. An exact measurement will ensure your insulation fits tight for optimal R-value. 90016 90013 Cut your pieces of foam. Use a table saw or handheld jigsaw to cut. A cordless jigsaw is ideal as you’ll be cutting from 4 × 8 foot pieces. Remember, you can always cut smaller, but you can not make a piece bigger if you cut too much.90016 90013 Install the foam. XPS comes in 2 «, 1.5», and 1 «thick pieces. The thickness you get depends on the width of your joists. If you have 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 joists, then using 2 «panels and layering them is ideal. Each XPS 2 «panel is R10, so if you have three, then you have a value of R30, which is excellent. 90016 90013 Re-install your floor. If you have a slight gap between the top of your foam and the top of the joists, it’s fine. An enclosed air gap also serves as an insulator. 90016 90194 90185 Other Methods for Installing from the Top 90186 90002 Insulated floor tiles are also an option for insulating from the top.If you do not want to pull up your floor, and can not get under your shed, then floor tiles provide some insulation. 90005 90002 They usually lock into place and are very easy to handle. They will not provide as much R-value as batts or XPS, but they offer a sturdy alternative. 90005 90002 If you do not want to put foam between your joists, why not put it over the top of the joists? If you have plenty of headroom in your shed, then layering a few sheets of XPS over the joists is possible. You’ll have to adjust your door openings and attach your subfloor through the insulation into the joists.90005 90002 Finally, you can install fiberglass or mineral fiber batts instead of rigid foam between your joists. This is not ideal because the batts are not as moisture resistant as XPS. Rodents are also more fond of batts, and having batts exposed to the outside on one side is not ideal. 90005 90185 How to Insulate a Shed Floor from the Bottom 90186 90002 Insulating a pre-built shed from the bottom is not always the easiest, but it can save you from removing your floor and emptying all the gear from your shed.Unless your shed is raised enough so that you can get under it, you’ll need to jack the entire structure. 90005 90002 Jacking a shed is not as hard as it sounds, with the right equipment. A farm jack, or automotive floor jack, will easily lift a shed enough so that you can fit under it. Do not use the jack alone — once jacked, be sure to put blocks underneath the shed to support the jack in case of jack failure. 90005 90002 We recommend using batts for this installation. Rigid foam is ideal, but batts are much easier to handle underneath a structure.Let’s take a look at the best way to insulate a pre-built shed from the bottom. 90005 90189 90013 If you need to jack your shed to get under it, then do it now. If you have a particularly large riding mower, consider removing it to make the structure lighter and jacking easier. 90016 90013 Once jacked, get under the shed and measure the joist cavities. 90016 90013 Use fiberglass or mineral fiber batts and cut them to size to fit each cavity. Use batts sized to fit your joist width. If you have 2 × 8 joists, you could opt for two layers of 2 × 4 batts.90016 90013 Install batts — make sure they fit snug but are not compressed. Compression removes internal air gaps and reduces R-value. 90016 90013 Once batts are installed, you’ll want to enclose the joist cavity with OSB sheathing, treated plywood, or hardware cloth. I recommend hardware cloth, as it only requires a stapler and you can overlap layers. Hauling a large sheet of plywood underneath a cramped space is difficult, at best. 90016 90013 Staple hardware cloth onto joist bottoms. Use lots of staples.Overlap hardware cloth by at least an inch to ensure all cavities are protected from rodents. 90016 90194 90185 Other Methods 90186 90002 Spray foam is another method to use when insulating from the bottom. If you have a tractor or other machine that can lift the shed, then you can use spray foam. 90005 90002 Although expensive, spray foam is by far the best insulating option for a structure. Once the spray foam is on, install hardware cloth or treated plywood. 90005 90002 Rigid foam is another option, and much cheaper than spray foam.If you can jack your shed up enough, then XPS foam is ideal. Use cheap metal strapping or run several strips of treated strapping across the bottom to hold rigid foam in place. 90005 90002 Another option is using a radiant barrier. Radiant barrier looks much like foil bubble wrap. It provides decent R-value at minimal size. It installs with staples and is easy to handle. 90005 90002 It does not offer much insulation value, but when installed in joist cavities, provides a barrier between ground and shed.90005 90002 90252 90252 90005 90051 Insulating a Shed Floor: New Construction 90052 90002 Installing insulation in a shed floor is simple when done during initial construction. When framing your floor, consider adding sheathing or treated plywood underneath your joists. This will allow you to safely add any type of insulation, without worrying about excessive amounts of moisture or rodents getting in. 90005 90002 If you are like my friend and wanting to make your shed habitable for people during the winter, then you’ll want a vapor barrier between the batts in the floor and the structure.When you heat the inside of the structure, you’ll want to ensure the moisture in the shed does not get into the batts below. 90005 90002 I recommend the use of closed cell spray foam for new construction. Closed cell foam is ideal if you have a larger budget. 90005 90002 You can raise one side of the shed and apply spray foam to one side, then do the same to the other side. If you can not afford closed cell spray foam, rigid foam or fiberglass batts are a good second option. 90005 90002 Installing closed cell spray foam in a cold climate requires a minimum of R-30 in your shed floor, for a heated space.Each inch of spray equals roughly R-6. Therefore, you’ll need at least 5 layers to achieve R-30. Here’s how to apply spray foam to the floor of your shed construction. 90005 90189 90013 After framing your shed floor, install your flooring. 90016 90013 Lift one side of shed structure, high enough that you can access at least half of the structure to spray. Begin spraying your foam. 90016 90013 When finished with one side, slowly lower and lift the other side. Spray the other side. 90016 90013 Enclosing each side with hardware cloth is a good idea.Once your spray foam sets, lift each side again and staple hardware cloth over the entirety of the underside of the shed. Make sure you overlap each row by an inch. 90016 90194 90002 90003 Other Methods for New Construction 90004 90005 90002 Rigid Foam between joists is also an option. However, batts offer a higher R-value and since the cavities are enclosed, you will not have to worry about moisture or rodents like you would if the cavities were open at the bottom. For this reason, rigid foam should be a secondary option in new construction.90005 90002 Using fiberglass batts and sealing the bottom with treated plywood or OSB sheathing is a great option for a small shed. Since you can flip the floor frame of a small shed over, you can easily screw sheathing into the bottom after you install the batts. The low price of fiberglass negates the cost of using sheathing on the bottom of your shed. 90005 90002 If your new shed is on a concrete slab, you’ll want to ensure your slab is over rigid foam panels. Depending on how you construct your shed on the slab.90005 90002 If you raise your shed on joists, then you can use the above methods to insulate joist cavities. If the shed is directly on the slab, then you can put insulated floor panels over the concrete. 90005 90042 Conclusion 90043 90002 However, you decide to insulate your shed, remember that moisture is your greatest enemy. Moisture negates R-value and introduces issues like mold and rot to your structure. Ensuring a secure joist cavity is critical when installing any type of insulation.90005 90002 As always, I hope you’ve found this guide helpful. Please share any comments or suggestions below and best of luck with insulating the floor of your new, or old, shed. 90005 90295 90295 90002 Eugene has been a DIY enthusiast for most of his life and loves being creative while inspiring creativity in others. He is passionately interested in home improvement, renovation and woodworking. 90005.90000 How do I insulate a floor? 90001 90002 How do I insulate a floor? 90003 90004 Got cold feet about cold floors? We look at how to insulate a floor, exploring options for both a wooden floor and concrete floor, showing you how to insulate under the floor or above a concrete slab, whilst minimising thermal bridging. 90005 90006 90007 Target U-Value 90008 90004 Generally, ground floors are either solid, usually concrete slabs, or suspended, i.e. timber floorboards on joists.When uninsulated, they will both have a U-value of between 0.45W / m 90010 2 90011 K and 0.70W / m 90010 2 90011 K, but this depends on the geometry of the floor and the amount of thermal bridging. In each case the target U-value after installing insulation is between 0.20W / m 90010 2 90011 K and 0.25W / m 90010 2 90011 K (depending on floor geometry). 90006 90004 Insulating a solid floor is a lot more trouble and expensive than insulating a timber floor. Typically, the former has a payback of between 8 or 10 years or more, but the payback period for suspended timber floor insulation is between 3 and 5 years.90006 90007 Avoiding thermal bridging 90008 90004 Thermal bridging occurs where a solid building elements continues from the inside to the outside of the structure, conducting heat out or cold in. It severely compromises the value of the work and can lead to cold spots and condensation. 90006 90004 Techniques to minimise thermal bridging with insulation around floors 90006 90004 The above diagrams show how to apply insulation around the edges of building elements to prevent thermal bridging.90006 90004 Also consider in each case where the airtightness layer beneath the floor next to the one in the walls around the edges. The airtightness layer prevents unwanted draught infiltration. It can be pictured as a continuous envelope around the building. 90006 90004 For example, in the diagram above for underfloor heating, which shows how the membrane laps up the side of the insulation behind the skirting board, it should then go behind, or be taped to, the plasterboard or plaster on the walls.90006 90004 In the diagram above illustrating insulation beneath a solid floor, where it goes underneath the wall to the outside, it should then connect to any render covering the wall. 90006 90007 Best insulation material to use to insulate a floor 90008 90004 Comparing the k-values ​​of some insulants used in underfloor insulation 90006 90004 The graph above shows the relative thermal conductivity (k-value) of some insulants which might be considered for underfloor insulation. The standard choice is phenolic foam, XPS or EPS, but these are not ideal in an eco-home, as it is not a natural material but non-breathable and a product of the fossil fuel industry.90006 90004 Other materials are discussed below and compared in tables for each type of floor. Figures for k-value vary according to product so you should do your own research. These tables are guides only. 90006 90004 Phenolic foam, EPS, polyisocyanurate and XPS should only be used if space is a absolute premium. As can be seen, batts of woodfibre or mineral wool are almost as good as EPS. Cellulose is also ideal if the insulant does not have to be load-bearing. This is made of recycled newsprint.Granulated cork has also been used. 90006 90004 We will now look at how to deal with each type of floor in turn. 90006 90007 How to insulate a wooden floor 90008 90004 If there is access from below, is easy to stuff the insulation between the joists. Press the insulation against the floorboards, but do not over-compress. 90006 90004 Sheep’s wool insulation between rafters in a suspended floor, secured with netting 90006 90004 It’s possible to add more insulation than the depth of the joists permits in two stages, by, after stuffing the spaces between the joists, adding battens to the underneath of the joists and fastening the second layer of retaining boards, fabric or netting to them .90006 90004 Holes in the floorboards where pipes and other wires go through, plus the gaps around the edges and between floorboards, all need to be plugged with mastic and tapes to prevent draughts. 90006 90004 If there is no access from beneath, there is nothing for it but to take up the floorboards. 90006 90004 If there is a possibility that the room could flood, a damp proof layer should not be put beneath the insulation; instead, draught resistant fabric should be used, through which the water can drain away.90006 90004 Three stages of installing insulation beneath a suspended wooden floor 90006 90004 Here, insulation in the form of sheep’s wool has been installed between the joists and kept in place with 60mm thick wood-fibre boards. The thermal conductivity of the wood-fibre boards is 0.04W / mK. This is fully breathable. The detailing for this installation is below. The U-value for a typical semi-detached house with this configuration is 0.16W / m 90010 2 90011 K. 90006 90004 Detail for insulation beneath suspended wooden floor 90006 90007 How much insulation do I need under a wooden floor? 90008 90004 Insulation thicknesses for a suspended wooden floor 90006 90002 90003 90002 90003 90077 How to insulate a concrete floor 90078 90004 If a floor is being excavated and replaced, this is a perfect opportunity to improve the standard of insulation.A U-value of 0.2W / m 90010 2 90011 K can be achieved for a typical semi-detached dwelling using around 100mm of air-based insulation and careful detailing. Better U-values ​​could be achieved with the same thickness of higher performance materials, or a deeper thickness of the same material. 90006 90004 Insulation can be added over the existing concrete slab or under a new one. 90006 90007 Above the concrete slab 90008 90004 If the insulation is placed above the slab, the room will warm up more quickly 90005 when the heating is switched on, but cool down more quickly too — this applies to all internal insulation.90006 90004 It will also affect the floor level, which has an impact on door openings, stairs and other fixtures. This is why phenolic foam is the most common solution in this instance, because it can achieve greater insulation for less depth. 90006 90004 In this case, the damp proof membrane goes above the concrete. Moisture resistant chipboard goes on top, beneath the flooring surface. Leave room for expansion around the edges. 90006 90007 Below the concrete slab 90008 90004 Insulation below the slab is generally better, especially in a warm south-facing room, since the concrete helps absorb heat and limits overheating.90006 90004 The damp proof membrane is placed over a layer of sand to prevent it being punctured by sharp stones. As it also serves as an airtightness membrane, it laps up the sides of the walls to link to the plaster or plasterboard. 90006 90004 Insulation goes on top of this and around the edges, and concrete is poured on top of that. If underfloor heating is being used, which is fixed to the top of the concrete mix, and then a small amount of concrete poured on top of that. The floorcovering can be either tiles or floorboards, but any timber should be left in the room for some weeks with the heating on before being laid to prevent it warping.90006 90007 How much insulation do I need for a concrete floor? 90008 90004 Insulation thicknesses for a solid concrete floor 90006 90007 Why not install underfloor heating along with solid floor insulation? 90008 90004 It is highly recommended to install underfloor heating at the same time as tackling underfloor insulation, especially with solid floors. You get better value for money. 90006 90004 Underfloor heating is far more efficient than conventional central heating and gives a greater feeling of comfort.It will pay for the cost of installing it with fuel savings, as less energy is required to achieve the same feeling of warmth. 90006 90004 Section through solid floor insulation with optional underfloor heating 90006 90004 If it is a suspended floor, always leave the floorboards in the room for a few weeks with the heating on before laying them to avoid the wood warping when in place. 90006 90077 90117 Find out more — visit a refurbished home 90118 90078 90004 You can find out more about floor insulation at green open house events in September.Speak to real homeowners as they share their personal experience of refurbishing their homes as part of SuperHome Open Days. SuperHomes are older homes refurbished by their owners for greater comfort, lower bills and far fewer carbon emissions — at least 60% less! Entry is free. Book now. 90006 90004 90117 Also see: 90118 90005 Boarding a loft over insulation 90005 Retrofit underfloor heating 90005 Insulating timber suspended floor 90006 90004 90117 Notes: 90118 90006 90004 90117 A U-value 90118 is the overall rate of energy transfer (in watts) through 1m 90010 2 90011 of a particular building element when the air temperatures on either side differ by 1ºC.The lower the U-value the better the material is at preventing either the loss of heat or penetration of cold. 90006 90004 90117 R-values ​​90118 are a measure of thermal resistance, and depend on the depth (d) of the insulation material divided by its thermal conductivity (λ or k-value): R = d / λ. It is measured in m 90010 2 90011 K / W. The thermal conductivity (λ or k-value) of an insulating material is given manufacturers. The thermal resistance of each component (as well as the resistances of cavities and surfaces) is used to calculate the overall thermal resistance or R-value for the entire structural element, in this case the floor.The U-value is the reciprocal of this R-value. 90006 90004 © David Thorpe, Manager of Green Deal Advice and author of Sustainable Home Refurbishment: The Earthscan Expert Guide to Retrofitting Homes for Efficiency 90006 90004 90006 .90000 How To Insulate A Bay Window Floor / Cantilever Floor 90001 90002 By Todd Fratzel on Insulation 90003 90004 90005 Bay Window and Floor Deck Cantilever Insulation Details 90006 90002 I’ve written quite a few articles on how to insulate basement walls and floors but one more specific topic related to this subject keeps coming up and that’s how to insulate a bay window floor or cantilever floor framing. In this article I’ll share a detail for new construction and also a detail for renovating existing bay window floors and deck overhangs.90003 90002 With the deck overhanging the foundation wall the area is exposed to extreme temperatures and the possibility of significant air infiltration. Even with 2 × 12 floor joists you’d be lucky to get a R30 insulation value with the floor perfectly sealed from air using fiberglass. That’s a big «IF» and frankly even at R30 that’s really not sufficient in cold areas of the country. With even a minimal amount of air infiltration that R value plummets to R15 or less! 90003 90002 The following details address both air infiltration and increased R values ​​to promote a much warmer floor system around deck overhangs.90003 90002 90003 90015 New Construction — Bay Window / Floor Overhang Insulation Detail 90016 90002 The sketch above shows one method for insulating the deck overhang at a bay window or cantilever that encloses a bump-out. Quite often the insulation in this area is dealt with long after the framing is finished and results in a very cold drafty spot in the house. Most often I see this area stuffed with fiberglass insulation after the house is built and thats just not an effective approach. 90003 90002 It’s important to note that this detail needs to be addressed during the framing process.The following steps will help reduce air infiltration and increase the effective R value. 90003 90021 90022 Install a layer of XPS or Polyiso foam board insulation to the bottom of the cantilevered floor joists. At a very minimum I’d recommend at least 1-1 / 2 «to 2» of XPS (polyiso will achieve higher R values). 90023 90022 Install exterior grade sheathing product below previously installed foam board to protect it from the elements and rodents. 90023 90022 Inside the basement area, install a piece of 1-1 / 2 «XPS foam on top of the foundation wall tight to the sill plate (seal against the sill plate with spray foam from a can).90023 90022 From the top side, prior to sheathing the floor deck, install XPS or Polyiso foam board tight between the joists and tight against the rim joist. Seal all the edges with spray foam. Also be sure to seal the bottom of this piece of foam to the lower piece previously installed below the joists. 90023 90022 Install an additional piece of XPS or Polyiso between the floor joists directly above the foundation wall (as if it were joist blocking). Again, seal this piece around the sides and bottom.90023 90022 Install fiberglass or cellulose insulation in the joist bay. 90023 90022 Install a final piece of XPS or Polyiso on top of the fiberglass or cellulose. Be sure to seal this piece to all the framing and foam. 90023 90022 After all those steps you can install the deck sheathing. 90023 90038 90002 The real key to this detail is spending time sealing every very well. Air infiltration is the root of all evil when it comes to how cold / hot a floor feels with this sort of location. 90003 90002 90003 90015 Existing Construction — Floor Overhang Insulation Retrofit 90016 90002 The detail above shows one approach to retrofitting an existing floor cantilever that you might find at a bay window or fireplace bump out.In this situation, its likely that only some fiberglass was stuffed into the joist bay after the framing was complete. There are several ways to deal with this such as spray foam or blowing in cellulose. However, if you’re looking for an approach to do yourself without specialized equipment the one shown above will work pretty well. 90003 90002 The key to the success of this approach is having adequate access to the interior joist bays from the basement and also to the underside of the cantilever from the outside.Both locations may prove very difficult to access to this is something you need to evaluate before you begin. The following steps describe the approach shown above. 90003 90021 90022 The first step will be attaching some XPS or Polyiso foam board to the bottom side of the cantilever from outside. If you can easily remove the existing sheathing then I’d recommend that. If not, install the foam over the existing sheathing as shown above. Be sure to keep it as tight to the foundation and perimeter of the cantilever.90023 90022 Install some protective exterior grade sheathing to cover up the foam. This may require some creative trim details to hide from the front such as a decorative water table or similar detail. 90023 90022 From the inside, try to install a piece of XPS or Polyiso tight against the rim joist. Be sure to seal the edges with spray foam. 90023 90022 Pack the joist bay full of fiberglass or cellulose (cellulose may be difficult). 90023 90022 Install a piece of XPS or Polyiso between the joists and above the foundation wall.Be sure to seal to the joists, foundation, and deck above. 90023 90038 90002 This approach will significantly cut down on air infiltration and improve the overall effective R value. 90003 90015 Final Thoughts — Insulating Floor Deck Cantilevers (Overhangs) 90016 90002 They keys to remember when insulating a deck cantilever (like bay window floors, 2nd floor overhangs, and chimney chases) if providing sufficient R value and preventing air infiltration. The minimum recommended R value for Zone 6 (DOE) is R30.If you’re using fiberglass, that number is nearly impossible to attain with just fiberglass and no air sealing even in a floor with 2 × 12’s. So the key is getting increased R value while also stopping as much air infiltration as possible. Following these key steps will help you make your floor overhang much more comfortable in the winter and summer. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003.90000 The Ultimate Guide to Laminate Flooring Underlayment 90001 90002 Underlayment is an important step for any laminate flooring installation. There are several factors you will need to consider when choosing an underlayment. Learn more about what you should know before buying a laminate flooring underlayment. 90003 90004 What Is Flooring Underlayment? 90005 90006 It is a thin foam pad, often made of polyethylene or polypropylene, which is laid on the sub-floor before installing the laminate.Most laminate floors on the market today require an underlayment to be installed. While there are manufacturers who offer floors with an underlayment attached, this is a special feature and is not included with all products. 90003 90008 Laminate flooring underlayment is available is a wide variety of styles. 90009 Why is Flooring Underlayment Necessary? 90005 90006 Laminate flooring is not nailed or glued down, so it needs some form of cushion between the subfloor and laminate to allow it to float easily.Think of it like a large jigsaw puzzle, which will be expanding and shifting as the climate changes. To avoid any damage due to friction between the laminate and your sub-floor, the underlayment must be laid first to give the laminate a smooth surface on which to float. 90003 90006 90014 90003 90009 Which Underlayment Should I Use? 90005 90006 While the concept of underlayment seems simple enough, all laminate underlayments are not created equal. Different manufactures offer many different features, which can enhance the feel and performance of your laminate floor.To help you figure out which underlayment will meet your needs, we have put together some more information on the underlayments that we offer. Before reading on, first ask yourself these two very important questions: 90003 90020 1. What Is Your Sub-floor? 90021 90006 If you are installing laminate over a concrete sub-floor, it is very important that a vapor barrier is used to prevent any possible damage due to the moisture released by the concrete. This is simply a sheet of thin plastic material, like Visqueen Vapor Block, that will stop any moisture from being absorbed into the laminate core.Many of the underlayments from Bestlaminate offer 2-in-1 or 90003.