Как сделать вентиляцию погреба: Вентиляция погреба с двумя трубами самое эффективное решение

Вентиляция погреба — устройство, требования и виды

Каждый дачник мечтает вырастить хороший урожай и сохранить его в течение длительного времени. Но чтобы фрукты и овощи пролежали до следующего сезона, важно поддержание оптимального микроклимата внутри помещения.

Вопрос в том, как правильно сделать вентиляцию в погребе, чтобы она соответствовала существующим требованиям. Ниже рассмотрим правила обустройства подвала, с помощью которых все манипуляции можно сделать своими руками.

Содержание статьи

Какие требования должны быть учтены?

Схема вентиляции погреба организуется таким образом, чтобы обеспечить поддержание стабильной температуры в помещении в течение всего года. Нагретые воздушные массы должны выходить наружу, а прохладные — заполнять пространство подвального помещения.

Кроме того, для реализации правильного воздухообмена требуется обеспечить стабильное поступление сухого и выход влажного воздуха. Делается это с помощью обычных труб, которые могут применяться в подвале гаража или многоквартирного дома. Главной задачей является защита от повышенной сырости, которая становится причиной порчи продуктов. Кроме того, влажное подвальное помещение негативно сказывается на микроклимате в самом доме.

Вентиляция в погребе своими руками будет эффективной, если соблюсти следующие требования к помещению:

• Никаких солнечных лучей. Даже качественная вентиляция подвала будет бесполезна, если внутрь проникает свет с улицы. Допускается только электрическое освещение.
• Выдерживание конкретного режима температуры. При создании подвалов используются помещения под домом, что требует особого подхода к организации микроклимата.
• Качественная вентиляция в подвале. В подвальную комнату должен поступать прохладный, а отводится теплый воздух.
• Соблюдение влажности. Оптимальный параметр — 85-90%. Если вентиляция в погребе под домом сделана правильно, добиться такого результата не составит труда.

Как видно из рассмотренных требований, главная задача — организация правильной приточно-вытяжной системы, обеспечивающей оптимальный температурный режим и нормальную влажность. Если вентиляция подвала сделана с ошибками, это приводит к множеству проблем — порче хранящихся продукции, образованию плесени и грибка, появлению затхлости в помещении.

Как оборудовать вентиляцию: общие требования

Чтобы сделать вентиляцию в погребе своими руками, вовсе не обязательно тратить время на поиск профессионалов и покупку дорогостоящего оборудования. Достаточно пары труб, с помощью одной из которых будет осуществляться подача воздуха, а другой — его отвод.

Роль материала для вентиляционной трубы может играть полихлорвинил, оцинковка или асбест. Главная сложность — выбор правильно диаметра, который определяется с учетом площади помещения. Так, чтобы сделать вентиляцию в подвале площадью в 10 кв. метров требуется установка трубы диаметром в 20 см. Расчет производится следующим образом. На один «квадрат» подвального помещения требуется 26 кв. см воздуховода. Известно, что на один сантиметр диаметра изделия приходится 13 кв. см сечения. Итоговая формула выглядит для расчета — площадь помещения (S) *26/13.

Правильная вентиляция погреба должна обеспечивать:

• Вытяжку. Задача воздуховода заключается в удалении старых и нагретых воздушных масс. Установка трубы должна быть произведена под потолком погреба. Труба монтируется вертикально, а верхней частью выступает над крышей на 0,5 м. Для снижения влажности в подвале требуется ее утепление. Для решения этой задачи применяется труба еще большего диаметра и специальный утеплитель (допускается применение минеральной ваты). Принцип организации прост. Более тонкое изделие вставляется в толстую трубу, после чего пространство между ними заполняется упомянутым материалом.
• Приток воздуха. Устройство вентиляции в погребе подразумевает применение еще одной трубы, предназначенной для подачи чистых воздушных масс снаружи. Монтаж производится в противоположном от места установки вытяжного воздуховода углу. Нижняя часть трубы должна находиться в 0,5 м от пола. Чтобы избежать проникновения в систему различной живности, на входе должна стоять сетка.

Вентиляция погреба зимой и летом работает за счет разности температур. Чтобы добиться идеальной замены воздушных масс, рекомендуется монтаж специальных задвижек. В ином случае возможно появление сквозняков или, наоборот, остановка движения воздуха (при высокой и низкой разнице температур соответственно).

Для проверки функционирования вентиляции требуется взять кусок бумажки и приложить его выходу вентиляционной трубы. Наличие колебаний свидетельствует о нормальной работе системы. Существует еще один вариант проверки. Можно поставить емкость с углями и обратить внимание, куда выходит дым. Если вентиляция погреба сделана правильно, дым выйдет через вытяжной воздуховод.

При настройке приточно-вытяжной системы можно сделать следующее:

• Для оптимизации обмена воздуха выполните настройку задвижек.
• Увеличьте диаметр воздуховода.
• Сделайте комбинированный вариант вентиляции (с применением вентилятора).

Естественная вентиляция

Практика показала, что в большинстве случаев оборудуется естественная вентиляция в погребе (ее схема проще). При этом задача остается прежней — вывод старых и поступление свежих воздушных масс. Для реализации задачи применяется две трубы — для обеспечения притока и вытяжки воздуха, которые монтируется в противоположных частях помещения. Чем больше расстояние между трубами, тем лучше.

Делайте вентиляцию так, чтобы труба для притока воздуха была внизу, а для отвода — вверху. Это требование обусловлено законами физики, по которым нагретые воздушные массы концентрируются в верхней части помещения, а прохладные — в нижней. После поступления воздуха с улицы он попадает вниз, после чего прогревается и выходит на улицу. Вентиляция погреба своими руками должна выполняться с учетом этого правила.

Зимой воздух имеет еще большую массу, поэтому процесс вентилирования улучшается. Что касается оптимального материала труб, для погреба лучше использовать асбест. Его плюсы в доступности по цене и долговечности. Для разряжения воздушного потока к воздуховоду фиксируется рефлектор.

Комбинированный тип вентиляции

Если вы проживаете в регионе с теплым климатом, классическая естественная вентиляция не подойдет. Лучшее решение —  организовать систему комбинированного типа, которая отличается универсальностью, подходит для любой погоды и различных типов жилого дома (пятиэтажной или обычной постройки).

Как и в прошлом случае, главными составляющими системы являются трубы для притока и вытяжки воздушного потока. Разница в наличии автоматизированной системы, подразумевающей установку дополнительного вентилятора в трубе отвода воздуха. Если вы решили построить подвал для длительного хранения продуктов и проживаете в условиях теплого климата, такой тип вентиляции подойдет лучше всего.

Тонкости обустройства погреба в гараже

Чтобы добиться оптимального микроклимата в подвальном помещении гаража, стоит выбрать один из двух вариантов:

• Естественная вентиляция.
• Принудительная вентиляция.

В первом случае принцип построения аналогичен, как и 1-этажном здании, когда для подвода и отвода воздуха используются специальные трубы, установленные в разных частях помещения. Вытяжные воздуховоды могут монтироваться двумя способами:

• Путем монтажа через стену и вывода на улицу.
• Посредством вывода трубы через крышу.

Перед тем как сделать вентиляцию в погребе, стоит подобрать подходящую трубу. Она должна имеет длину 2,5-3 метра, чтобы изделие выступало над крышей на 0,5-1,0 м. В верхней части воздуховода монтируется дефлектор, активизирующий движение потока воздуха, а также препятствующий попаданию внутрь грязи и пыли. Оптимальный диаметр дефлектора — в два раза толще, чем диаметр трубы. При желании сделать его можно и самостоятельно с применением пластика.

Труба подачи воздуха монтируется на расстоянии 0,5 м от пола и столько же над уровнем поверхности земли. Сверху вывод закрывается решеткой для защиты от живности. Воздухоотводы могут выполняться из пластика или асбеста. Первые обходятся дешевле и отличаются стойкостью к повреждениям и низкой температуре. Наиболее доступный вариант — жесть, но такой материал долго не служит.

Немаловажным элементом вентиляции являются заслонки, которые можно приобрести или сделать самостоятельно. Главное, чтобы изделие полностью перекрывало проток трубы. Система закрытия воздуховодов бывает автоматическая или ручная. Ее наличие позволяет своевременно перекрывать поступление холодного воздуха в подвал.

Второй вариант — сделать организованную вентиляцию с применением вентиляторов (принудительный способ). Главная сложность заключается в подведении напряжения с учетом требований электробезопасности. При отсутствии специальных навыков можно посмотреть обучающее видео или пригласить специалистов. Делайте все так, чтобы проводка была надежно защищена от влаги.

Итоги

Вентиляцию подвала в многоквартирном доме или гараже сделать не так сложно, как кажется на первый взгляд. Главное — подготовить схему, изучить принцип работы системы и четко следовать рекомендациям в статье. В завершение приведем несколько полезных советов:

• Для выполнения работ потребуется молоток, перфоратор и угловая шлифмашинка.
• При высоком уровне влаги помещение нужно проветривать — открывать двери и задвижки.
• Появление грибка или запахов свидетельствует об ошибках в оборудовании вентиляции.
• При слишком низкой влажности стоит поставить в помещение коробок с мокрым песком.
• Если задача погреба — хранение вина, систему необходимо автоматизировать. Для этого покупаются устройства для регулирования влаги и температуры.

Помните, что качество вентиляции подвала зависит от многих факторов — типа входа, исходного материла, правильности установки труб и даже наличия козырька. Так что подходите к выполнению работ со всей ответственностью.

90000 Root Cellars 101- Root Cellar Design, Use and Mistakes to Avoid 90001 90002 Sharing is caring! 90003 90004 90004 90002 In this article we’ll talk about 5 basic things you must include in a root cellar design, plus 10 tips for fruit and vegetable storage. There’s also a printable storage guide for over 30 fruits and veggies, and links to additional information at the bottom of the post. 90003 90002 A root cellar is a great low-cost way to store food — not just root vegetables, but other fresh produce, too.They require little to no energy to use and very little maintenance. 90003 90002 You can build in a root cellar when your home is under construction, but it’s also possible to add a root cellar to your basement, or build one outside your home. 90003 90012 90012 90014 What is a root cellar? 90015 90002 Wiki says a root cellar is «90017 a structure, usually underground or partially underground, used for storage of vegetables, fruits, nuts, or other foods. 90018 «90003 90002 Dig a deep enough hole, and you’ll find that the ground is cool (and often moist).Root cellars tap into those cool, moist soil conditions and use them to store fruits and vegetables — like your refrigerator produce bin. 90003 90014 Building a Root Cellar 90015 90002 There are five major elements that a root cellar requires: 90003 90026 90027 90028 Ventilation: 90029 Some fruits and vegetables give off ethylene gas, which can cause other produce to spoil. Also, a tightly sealed cellar will increase the risk of mold. Make sure fresh air can get in, stale air can get out, and air can circulate around the produce.90030 90027 90028 Earth-shelter: 90029 The soil insulates and maintains a cooler temperature. A packed earth floor or gravel floor is better than concrete for keeping moisture (humidity) levels higher. 90030 90027 90028 Humidity: 90029 A high humidity level of 80-95% keeps produce from drying out. Humidity that is high enough for produce may cause canning jar lids to rust, so be sure to check lids and rotate stock if you store canned goods in the root cellar. Too much humidity can be a problem also, so try to keep it below 95% 90030 90027 90028 Darkness: 90029 Light can trigger sprouting, so if you have a window in your root cellar, keep it covered, and do not leave the lights on.90030 90027 90028 Shelving / Storage bins: 90029 Wood shelving and bins are naturally antibacterial. Wood also conducts heat more slowly than metal, and does not rust. Avoid treated wood, and stick to those that are naturally rot resistant. 90030 90047 90014 Types of Root Cellars and Natural Cold Storage Options 90015 90002 Natural cold storage options include (click on any item in the list to jump to more information below): 90003 90002 All of these keep your food cool. These earth sheltered fruit and vegetable options work best for those in cooler climates, where the ground temp is naturally cooler.90003 90014 Warmer Climate Options 90015 90002 You may not be able to store things like we northerners can, but the Above Ground Root Cellar post will give you some ideas of what you can store, plus tips for year round food production so you always have fresh , local food to enjoy. The Coolbot makes it very affordable to use a standard AC unit for refrigerated fruit and vegetable storage. 90003 90002 Check out the related articles 90003 90014 10 Tips for Fruit and Vegetable Storage in a Root Cellar 90015 90002 Key storage tips to remember: 90003 90026 90027 Late-maturing crops store better than early maturing crops.Specific varieties also store better than others. Watch for varieties that are noted for good storage quality. 90030 90027 Check fruit and vegetable condition at storage time. If you note any damage on produce, use those items first. One bad apple or onion can spoil the whole bin, so it’s good to regularly inspect produce during storage, too. 90030 90027 Cure the vegetables that need it before storage. Vegetables that require curing include onions, garlic, winter squash (pumpkins), potatoes and other root crops.90030 90027 Most root vegetables store best in the root cellar if they are wiped off rather than washed. Wipe excess dirt off of carrots, beets, rutabagas and turnips and store them in lightly dampened leaves or straw. Use fresh leaves each year to prevent potential pathogen buildup. Fresh sand and sawdust will also work, but are messier. 90030 90027 If you have a muddy garden at harvest time, it’s okay to wash, but make sure dry up excess moisture (and cure if needed) before storage to avoid rot.Humidity is good, water on the surface of fruits and vegetables is not. 90030 90027 Less-than-ideal conditions shorten storage life. Try to get as close as possible to target temps and moisture levels. Use different areas of your storage for crops that are a best fit, such as storing carrots and beets lower (colder) and tomatoes and winter squash higher (warmer). (See Fruit and Vegetable Storage chart below.) 90030 90027 Store fruits that give off ethylene gas away from produce that can be spoiled easily by ethylene gas.You can also wrap fruit that produces excess ethylene in newspaper to contain the gas. 90030 90027 The odor of strong smelling vegetables, like turnips and cabbage, can be absorbed by fruits and other vegetables. Store them away from other food and where the odor can not waft into the house. 90030 90027 90028 Do not allow fruits and vegetables to freeze. They will get mushy and rot. 90029 90030 90027 Track temperature and humidity to measure your root cellar performance. Do not open the root cellar unless you have to, unless the entry is protected.Letting heat in or very cold dry air in will reduce the storage life of your fruits and vegetables. 90030 90047 90088 Fruit and Vegetable Storage Chart 90089 90002 This chart gives preferred temperature and moisture ranges for root cellar storage of a variety of fruits and vegetables. 90017 Adapted from the 90018 90017 University of Missouri Extension Office 90018 90017. 90018 90028 Click 90029 90028 HERE 90029 90028 or on image below to download Printable PDF version of Root Cellar Storage Requirements.90029 90003 90104 90104 90014 Root Cellar Location — In the Basement or Buried Outside? 90015 90002 By default, the word «cellar» means «underground». A big part of why root cellars work as well as they do is that the earth remains at a relatively constant (cool) temperature. 90003 90002 Underground temperatures vary, depending on your location. Closer to the equator, it may be cooler than air temp, but still is not likely to act well as a root cellar in Canada. At the opposite extreme, you have arctic permafrost, which the native folks use to store whole animals.90003 90088 Retrofitting a Root Cellar in an Existing Home 90089 90002 The easiest option for building a root cellar is to section off a part of the basement for your fruit and vegetable storage. Old dirt floor basements without heat are great for maintaining proper temperature and humidity levels (be sure to insulate between the house and root cellar). 90003 90014 Add a Root Cellar to a New Home 90015 90002 Many new homes have a small concrete exterior porch. Typically this area has 4ft footings and is filled under the porch with dirt.You need to put a foundation wall under it anyway, so why not put this area to good use? 90003 90002 To turn this under porch area into a root cellar, have the builder put in full footings, an insulated exterior grade access door from the basement and two 4 inch vent holes. Add concrete slab on top as normal. This area could also be a wine cellar or safe room. It will cost more but not a lot more. 90003 90002 Add a switched light and rigid insulation on the ceiling of the root cellar. Insulate the walls to the home.Do not insulate the outside walls exposed to soil. If possible get the builder to skip insulating around that area on the exterior of the root cellar concrete. 90003 90002 Our porch root cellar measures about 6’x8 ‘. It provides plenty of room for our stash of root veggies, plus gives a nice sized porch above. Locating the root cellar outside the footprint of the home allows the root cellar to maintain cooler temperatures more easily than a cellar located within the house. 90003 90126 90126 90088 Building a Root Cellar Outside the Home 90089 90002 For an exterior root cellar, similar rules apply — have good ventilation, keep it earth sheltered and dark.A north facing door is preferred, to avoid sun beating in and heating your cellar up. 90003 90002 Try for at least one to two feet of soil covering the root cellar. Consider a pre-made option such as a septic tank or large pre-cast culvert. Otherwise use materials that are rot resistant and can stand the weight of wet soil. We do not recommend shipping containers. 90003 90088 Traditional Root Cellar 90089 90002 This is what most of us think of when we hear the phrase «root cellar». There are insulated doors that lead down into the earth.It’s dug down or into the side of a hill. 90003 90002 Walls are concrete, cinder block, or more creative materials like old tires. You need to make sure the roof and walls are well supported to avoid collapse. Engage an architect or engineer to ensure your safety. 90003 90088 Earth Berm Root Cellar 90089 90002 Above ground root cellars are usually partly sunken with earth mounded on 3 sides and the door avoiding the direct sun. See the Above Ground Root Cellars post for more information. 90003 90002 For a great resource on building a homestead root cellar, check out the book below by my friend, Teri, of Homestead Honey.90003 90002 Select an area with an existing window if possible, and use the window for ventilation. Fill the window with exterior grade plywood, and cut the necessary vent holes through the plywood. The plywood also blocks direct light. 90003 90002 North facing corners work well, because you can leave the two exterior walls uninsulated, and only insulate the interior walls and ceiling. A north facing wall will not gain heat from the sun. Use materials that tolerate moisture exposure. 90003 90002 Insulating between the house and root cellar is necessary so you do not heat the root cellar from above.You also avoid losing house heat into the root cellar. 90003 90002 Your basement root cellar should have no standard heating or cooling. Insulate any ductwork or piping that runs through the ceiling above your root cellar (if any). Make sure vents or hot water pipes are well insulated so they do not bleed heat into your root cellar. 90003 90002 For additional food storage space, build shelving on the inside and outside of your basement root cellar for canned goods or other items. The area outside the root cellar can be used to store dry goods and canned goods if it is cool enough.90003 90088 Barrel in the ground for (Zones 6-9) 90089 90002 The size and depth depends on the zone you live in. A simple bucket, with holes drilled in the bottom and top, buried level with the soil with a bale of hay as an insulating cover will work into zone 7 and possibly into zone 6 depending on cover and conditions. The colder and hotter zones require the bucket or barrel to be deeper, and more insulation on the top to avoid the freezing surface temps. 90003 90002 For more information on zones see: Plant Hardiness Zones & Microclimate — Creating your Best Garden 90003 90088 Barrel in the ground for (Zones 3-6) 90089 90002 Buy one 55gal large heavy duty garbage can, and a 32gal smaller garbage can that fits inside the larger one (with an inch or two gap).Both the larger garbage can and the smaller one need holes in the bottom. 90003 90002 The inside can needs a cover with vents / screen. Cover exterior holes with screens to keep rodents out. It also needs significant insulation above it (over it). Bales of hay, or piles of leaves can insulate it. 90003 90002 Prepare a hole that is deeper than the large garbage can, with rocks and gravel in the bottom to create a simple French drain. If water drains well, you will need a small amount of rocks and gravel.If you have clay or your soil does not drain well, you need to go deeper and wider so your underground storage barrel does not turn into a water hole. 90003 90002 Another trick is to dig a very deep, large hole next to the garbage can hole and fill that hole with rocks. The deeper hole acts as a drain for your shallower garbage can root cellar. 90003 90002 Once you have the large garbage can in the ground and secure, lower the smaller one into the larger barrel. Store food in the small barrel. 90003 90002 When you need access, grab from the top or pull out the smaller barrel.This makes it easier to reach food the bottom. There are many variations on this. 90003 90176 90176.90000 The Fundamentals of Root Cellaring 90001 90002 Root cellars are as useful today as ever. In fact, root cellars in all forms are very up-to-date, what with the costs of food and its processing getting higher every year. As we see it, root cellars are right up there with wood heat, bicycles and backyard gardens as a simple, low-technology way of living well — independently. 90003 90002 The term «root cellars,» as used here, includes the whole range of ingenious vegetable-saving techniques, from hillside caves to garden trenches.The traditional root cellar is an underground storage space for vegetables and fruits. Where space and lay of the land permit, these cellars are dug into a hill and then lined with brick, stone or concrete block. Dirt-floored or insulated basement rooms — less picturesque but probably more numerous — are also traditional. 90003 90002 What can root cellaring do for you? Simply this: make it possible for you to enjoy fresh endive in December; tender, savory Chinese cabbage in January; juicy apples in February; crisp carrots in March; and sturdy, unsprayed potatoes in April — all without boiling a jar, blanching a vegetable or filling a freezer bag.A root cellar can save you time, money and supplies. How? For starters, our gas and electric bills were lower because I was not heating 2-gallon kettles of water for canning, I was stuffing less into the freezer, and I did not need to buy new jar lids or freezer bags. 90003 90002 Storage vegetables need not be limited to those old standbys: carrots, potatoes and turnips. With a really well-planned root cellar program, fresh tomatoes, tender dandelion shoots, nuts, pears, sweet potatoes and even cantaloupes can be preserved.Even if you must buy some produce, you’ll find prices of storage vegetables are usually lowest in the fall. If squash is 25 cents a pound at a roadside stand in October, you can be sure it will cost much more than that at the market in January. 90003 90002 More important, it is good to be able to provide for yourself, to be prepared for the winter through your own skill and forethought with your own home-grown produce. If you like to choose your food with care and live simply and self-reliantly, perhaps root cellaring is for you.90003 90002 There are three basic conditions a root cellar should provide. The closer you come to matching these ideal conditions in your vegetable-storage area, the better your vegetables will keep. 90003 90002 90015 Root Cellar Humidity: 90016 High humidity is essential to effective root cellar storage. Most root crops and leafy vegetables keep best in humidity of 90 to 95 percent. Providing plenty of moisture helps prevent these foods from shriveling. 90003 90002 You can achieve the necessary humidity level in a root cellar three ways.First, install a dirt floor, which will retain more natural moisture than one made of concrete or stone. We recommend spreading gravel on packed earth. This helps keep feet dry when the ground gets really damp. Should the storage area need more moisture, you can supply it by sprinkling the gravel with water, which — because of the large surface area — will evaporate readily and fill the air with moisture. 90003 90002 Bringing us to the second way of keeping humidity high: Add some water either by sprinkling the floor, spreading damp (but not dripping wet) burlap bags over the produce or placing pans of water on the root cellar floor.Such measures are often necessary in the fall, when you’re first storing produce. Basement root cellars are much more likely than dug-in root cellars to need added humidity. In very moist areas, root vegetables can be kept uncovered in bins, and they’ll stay smooth and firm. But if your humidity reading falls short of the ideal, you may get better results with a third option: Pack the vegetables — especially carrots, beets and parsnips — in damp sawdust, sand or moss; this cuts down surface evaporation.90003 90002 It’s important to remember that cool air absorbs less moisture than warm air. You get a pretty unstable situation in a place that’s both cold and very damp. A slight drop in temperature can cause air that, at 34 degrees Fahrenheit, say, has room for a bit more moisture, to suddenly become fully saturated at 32 degrees. When this happens, you’ve reached the dew point, and the excess water that the air can no longer hold begins to condense on wall, ceiling and even vegetable surfaces.When produce becomes wet, it’s more likely to spoil — even at low temperatures. To be safe, buy a hygrometer (a humidity measuring device) at the hardware store. 90003 90002 90015 Root Cellar 90016 90015 Ventilation: 90016 Basically, air must be admitted then monitored and circulated through a root cellar. Admitting air to the cellar (as described below) helps keep the area at the desired low temperature. Equally important, adjusting air intake helps to reduce excessive humidity, thus preventing undesirable condensation.Air — set in motion effectively — removes both vegetable odors and ethylene gas given off by stored fruits, which might otherwise produce off-flavors in other foods. 90003 90002 To understand how air can circulate through a root cellar, remember that warm air rises and cool air falls. In a large or tightly enclosed cellar, you’ll need both an air intake and an outlet. The intake should be low, and the outlet should be high; ideally, the two should be on opposite sides of the room to best circulate the air.Cool air will enter through the low intake, and warm air will be re leased through the outlet. In a small storage area, or in one with many cracks where air can enter (such as an old stone foundation), a single outlet placed high to exhaust warm air may be sufficient. Always elevate crates a few inches so that air can circulate underneath them. 90003 90002 90015 Root Cellar Temperature: 90016 Your most important consideration. A good root cellar can both borrow cold and keep cold. You borrow cold by digging into the ground, where the temperature well below frost level remains a fairly constant 52 F or so.This works because the deep-down earth temperature is slow to be affected by ultra-cold surface temperature, so your underground vegetables will have an extra margin of protection. You can borrow cold by letting the night air into the cellar either with a window or a closable exhaust pipe. 90003 90002 If you can maintain temperatures between 32 and 40 F, you have an excellent storage place. A temperature range of 40 to 50 degrees will still permit shorter-term storage of root vegetables and apples, and will keep onions and some of the short-lived storage vegetables like peppers, tomatoes and eggplant in good shape for a month or so.90003 90038 90002 In an indoor root cellar, the area close to the ceiling will be a few degrees warmer than space near the floor, so you’ll have at least a small difference in conditions that you can take advantage of by placing vegetables according to their different storage requirements. 90003 90002 A thermometer is essential for a well-run root cellar. One with minimum / maximum readings will give you a good picture of the kind of temperature variations you’re working with.90003 90043 The Root Cellar For You 90044 90002 The kind of root cellar you build or adapt will depend on the floor plan of your house, the lay of your land and the temperatures and snow cover in your area. 90003 90002 If you have an old house with an unheated, dirt-floor basement room, you’re all set. With slight modification, or in some cases none at all, you’ll have an ideal vegetable-storage cellar. In a house with a heated basement, it’s possible to partition off an unheated corner for vegetable storage.90003 90002 If you prefer an outdoor root cellar, you can either dig into a hill or go straight underground and top the cellar entrance with a bulkhead door, patio or porch. Most outdoor root cellars are dug into a north-facing hill or are underground on the north (coolest) side of the house. You’ll find exceptions to this rule in some of the northern states and Canada, where temperatures plummet well below zero in winter and stay there. Some of the old-time outdoor root cellars in these areas are built on southern exposures for easier winter access.Once winter sets in, it’s plenty cold there even though these cellars get more sunlight than it seems they should. 90003 90002 If you live in an area where winter temperatures are often below zero degrees Fahrenheit and snow cover is heavy, you may prefer climbing into an under-porch storage pit to shoveling through drifts to get to a hill-cave root cellar. Many underground root cellars (such as the one detailed below) are built with an anteroom or double doors that form an airlock, which helps keep warm summer air out of the cellar and also prevents undo chilling of the produce in severe winter weather.90003 90002 If your winters are mild, with average temperatures well over 30 F, you will not be able to achieve the most desirable low temperature in your cellar for keeping root vegetables. Those vegetables probably will keep very well in the garden row, and the warm-keepers like squash, onions and sweets should do fine in a cool corner of your house. 90003 90002 Many people opt for a 8-by-10 foot space or larger — but few can fill them to capacity (a 5-by-8 foot space can hold 30 bushels of produce).If you plan on keeping buckets of soil to store vegetables such as celery, a 8-by-8 foot space should suffice. We recommend using multiple shelves to maximize space. Use only rot-resistant woods, and slat for good air circulation. Shelves should also have 1 to 2-inch cleat at the back to keep edges away from the wall. 90003 90002 With a really well-planned root cellar, fresh tomatoes, tender dandelion shoots, nuts, pears and cantaloupes can all be preserves. 90003 90043 An Excavated Root Cellar 90044 90002 As we mentioned before, there are many options when it comes to root cellaring.But unless you’re lucky enough to have an existing usable structure or live in a warm climate where a garden row is a good choice, you’ll want to consider an excavated root cellar. 90003 90002 Dug-in root cellars work well because they are insulated by the earth surrounding them. The soil is a poor conductor of heat, so the temperature of the ground 6 feet under is cool and fairly constant. The natural moisture of the earth helps keep humidity high. Since soil is heavy, an underground root cellar should be strongly built.In addition, because frozen, wet soil can expand and rupture walls, it’s important to provide drainage around the cellar to stop waterlogged soil from freezing and caving in the walls of your cellar. The dug-in root cellar root shown in the Image Gallery is divided into two parts for several reasons: The small anteroom helps insulate the inner chamber from extreme heat and cold and also provides a choice of conditions, allowing your vegetable storing system to be fine -tuned. 90003 90002 Let’s assume that you’re lucky enough to have a north-facing hill, and you intend to make a dug-in root cellar in the slope of the hill.You’re ready to begin, but how? 90003 90002 90015 Step One: 90016 As you’ve surely guessed, your first step is to dig a hole in the hill. You’ll need to remove enough soil to make space for the volume of the cellar you plan to build. It’s no help to dig a hole much larger than you really need, for all that space will have to be backfilled. Dig deeply enough so that the footer will be below the depth of the average frost penetration in your area. Most of the cellar will be protected by soil. Dig down an extra 2 to 3 feet around the door where the foundation will be most exposed to the cold.Fill with gravel up to the base of the footer. 90003 90002 90015 Step Two: 90016 Lay drain pipe from the floor drains in the cellar out to daylight. The floor inside the root cellar should be a bit higher than the level of soil outside the door so that water drains off. 90003 90002 90015 Step Three: 90016 Pour the concrete footer. After the ground in the cellar site is leveled, make forms from 2-by-8 lumber. The footer should be 16 inches wide for a concrete block wall and 8 inches wide for a poured concrete wall 4 inches thick (in other words, twice as wide as the wall will be).Technically, of course, the footer will be only 7 ¼ inches deep, since that is the actual dimension of a piece of 8-inch lumber these days. Put several reinforcing rods in the concrete poured over the dug-out spot at the door. Let the footer cure for three to seven days before proceeding with the walls. 90003 90002 90015 Step Four. 90016 Start laying concrete blocks. 90003 90002 Since you’ve sensibly planned the dimensions of your cellar in multiples of 8 inches (half the length of a standard concrete block allowing for mortar joints), you should have no trouble here.Leave a gap for a standard door. For vent pipes in side walls, either leave a gap between blocks or chip one block. Your cellar should be from 6 ½ to 8 inches deep. 90003 90002 90015 Step Five. 90016 Make forms to support the poured concrete roof. The roof should be reinforced with crossed and tied reinforcing bars as shown in the diagram. The bars should be embedded in the bottom half of the poured concrete roof. If they’re too close to the surface, they do not do much to strengthen the roof.The pour is made directly on plastic-covered ¾-inch plywood, which is supported by joists resting on beams, which are held up by 4-by-4 posts. You’ll also need a form running around the roof perimeter to hold the concrete ceiling until it dries and hardens. Make this form out of 2-by-6 lumber and attach supports at the corners and at least every 4 feet along the sides. Without these supports, the weight of the concrete is likely to bulge the forms and then drip through the gap. Why cover the plywood with plastic? So that water from the concrete mix does not seep through and drain off, weakening the concrete.A flat roof is easiest to build; just remember to insert the exhaust and intake pipes in the ceiling form board before you pour the concrete for the roof. 90003 90002 90015 Step Six. 90016 Start to backfill around the cellar. Tamp the soil lightly but firmly as you go. When the level of backfilled soil is still 2 to 3 feet below the projected soil surface height on the slope, insert a perforated 4-inch drainpipe running across the entire back of the cellar, bending around both corners and ending at daylight.The pipe should rest on a 3-inch gravel bed and have a length of heavy roofing paper or 6-mil plastic sheeting tucked partly over the top (but not around it) to prevent silt from clogging it. The pipe should slope 1 inch across 8 feet starting from center back down both sides. 90003 90002 The purpose of this drainpipe is not to keep water out of the cellar, but to prevent pressure on the rear wall of the root cellar from expansion due to frozen wet soil. 90003 90002 Backfill with gravel above the pipe.If filling in manually, you can place a board behind the pipe and gradually fill in soil behind the board, pulling the board out every few inches. 90003 90002 90015 Step Seven. 90016 Finish backfilling around the cellar sides. Later, you may need to fill in with more soil as the disturbed ground settles. 90003 90002 90015 Step Eight. 90016 Using construction cement, attach rigid 2-inch sheets of urethane or Styrofoam to the exterior surface of the root cellar roof. 90003 90002 90015 Step Nine.90016 Spread a sheet of 6-mil polythylene over the insulation. 90003 90002 90015 Step Ten. 90016 Cover the root cellar with 2 to 4 feet of earth. Plant grass on the roof to hold the soil so it does not run off when it rains. 90003 90002 90015 Step Eleven. 90016 Spread gravel on the root cellar floor (optional). 90003 90002 90015 Step Twelve. 90016 Make shelves. Be sure to leave that 2-inch gap between the shelf and the wall to allow for air circulation. Brace the shelves with scrap wood as shown.Better not to make the shelves too deep, 16 inches should be plenty. 90003 90002 90015 Step Thirteen. 90016 Insulate a standard door with 2-by-2 lumber nailed all around the edge on the inside. Fit 2-inch Styrofoam inside this frame. Cover the Styrofoam with Aspenite or similar paneling. If you can maintain between 32 and 40 F, you have an excellent storage place. 90003 90002 In our own experiments with storing live winter vegetables, we discovered a pleasure akin to the contentment of dressing by the warm fire on a cold morning.90003 90043 Other Keys to Root Cellar Success 90044 90002 Now that you know how to construct your root cellar, a few hints on how to make the most of it: 90003 90002 90015 Accessibility: 90016 The more convenient your root cellar is, the more useful it will be to you. A root cellar that is close to the house, easy to clean, well lit (a bare light bulb is fine) and handy is the most satisfying. 90003 90002 90015 Canned goods: 90016 Do not keep jars of canned goods in your main vegetable-storage area.The level of dampness you need for your root crops will rust the lids. 90003 90002 90015 Cooperative Root Cellaring: 90016 As we discussed earlier, a space of 8-by-8 feet should be plenty for the average family. But consider setting up a cooperative root cellar, with maintenance tasks shared by several families. Building the cellar could be a joint effort, too. Or one owner could accept produce and charge a small rent or accept barters. 90003 90002 90015 Darkness: 90016 An electric light is a big help when you go to plunder your store, but between times, the root cellar should be dark.Light deteriorates some storage vegetables. If you ventilate a basement room by raising an outside window, be sure to shade it. 90003 90002 90015 Pests: 90016 Close all spaces as tightly as you can to keep the mice out. This means screening all vent pipes and windows and making sure the door fits tightly. 90003 90002 90015 Storage: 90016 The debate is crates vs. half-bushel baskets. Half-bushel baskets are light in weight and easy to handle. Crates utilize space more efficiently and they can be stacked.You decide. 90003 90002 In our own experiments with storing live winter vegetables, we discovered a pleasure akin to the contentment of dressing by the warm fire on a cold morning — the pleasure of delving into one’s own store for food to put on the winter table. As we shiver our way back to the warm kitchen with parsnips in our pockets, a handful of potatoes and a bag of carrots, we feel very good because we’ve managed to grow it and to keep it. We wish each of you the same kind of satisfaction.90003 90002 90158 Material in this article appears in Mike and Nancy Bubel’s new edition of 90159 90158 Root Cellaring: Natural Cold Storage of Fruits & Vegetables 90159 90158. The book is available from 90159 90158 MOTHER EARTH NEWS Shopping 90159 90158, and contains detailed plans for all types of root cellars, plus a number of wonderful insights and tips. 90159 90003 .90000 How to Ventilate a Basement | Home Guides 90001 90002 By Rebecca Mecomber Updated December 29, 2018 90003 90002 More than any other room in the house, the basement can become a repository of unpleasant odors, moisture problems, mold growth and other indoor pollutants. Unventilated basements are not only prone to musty odors and mildew, the basement is also commonly used to store household chemicals. Paints, solvents, automobile products and cleaning products slowly release chemicals into the air.In an unventilated space, these chemicals build up and produce a toxic environment. Ventilating the basement exhausts polluted or musty air and draws in fresh air from outdoors. There are two basic methods for basement ventilation: natural and mechanical, both with their advantages and disadvantages. 90003 90006 Why Ventilate 90007 90002 Due to its position below ground, moisture from the earth seeps in through the floor and walls. When this cold moisture collides with the warmer basement air, condensation develops.Excessive condensation creates a musty, sour smell and, if left to collect into pools of liquid water, stagnates or produces a breeding ground for mold and mildew spores. Some molds are toxic and hazardous to the health of the home’s occupants. The Environmental Protection Agency reports that certain types of mold, particularly black mold, can aggravate or cause allergic reactions, asthma attacks and symptoms of influenza. The EPA recommends that homeowners reduce or remove any water leaks or moisture problems, and ventilate the basement.A constant influx of clean, fresh air inhibits mold and mildew growth. 90003 90010 Natural Ventilation Method 90007 90002 Natural ventilation makes use of natural air currents, but this type of ventilation works only for basements with windows that are strategically placed and able to open and close. While the natural method conserves energy, it does require more work. Windows must be opened at regular intervals and closed during times of rainfall or at night to prevent intruders from entering the basement.For best results, windows should be opposite each other across the basement space, following the natural drafts of the basement. A wet basement needs additional ventilation, such as fans or a dehumidifier. If the basement is continuously wet, the natural method is most likely insufficient and a more mechanical system may be required. 90003 90014 Mechanical Ventilation Method 90007 90002 Mechanical ventilation uses fans and vents to exhaust existing basement air and bring in fresh, outdoor air.This type of system may be as simple as placing small window fans in opposite windows or as technical as installing an exhaust fan with ventilation pipe. Many homeowners opt for a mechanical ventilation because of the great flexibility and automation it provides. Mechanical ventilation is a requirement for homes testing positive for radon, an odorless gas that is the leading cause of lung cancer in the United States among non-smokers. The EPA recommends that homeowners with radon in their homes consult with their state radon department for information on installing a radon mitigation system.90003 90018 Basic Installation System 90007 90002 A basic mechanical ventilation system begins with a design plan and depends largely on the size of the basement and other appliances or items in the space. For most small to moderately sized basements, a ventilation fan on one side of the basement and an exhaust fan on the other end is suitable. The fans may be permanently installed within existing window cavities, or may need dedicated openings cut through the portions of the basement walls that are above ground.The best ventilation fans include a humidity sensor for simple automation. Once the sensor detects a certain moisture content, the fans vent the air until the moisture content in the basement is reduced. The EPA suggests that homeowners maintain an environment below 60 percent humidity to inhibit the growth of mold and mildew in their basements. 90003.90000 How To Ventilate Your House 90001 90002 90003 90004 Complete Guide to Ventilation and Condensation Control 90005 90002 Condensation can lead to a whole range of problems. It is also a very visible problem, especially in the colder winter months. Condensation control and adequate ventilation in a property are extremely important, as left untreated condensation can lead to damp and mould problems as well as aggravating health conditions. 90003 90002 WHAT IS CONDENSATION? 90003 90002 WHAT CAUSES CONDENSATION? 90003 90002 WHERE DOES CONDENSATION OCCUR? 90003 90002 DO I HAVE CONDENSATION? 90003 90002 ISSUES WITH CONDENSATION 90003 90002 HOW DO I CONTROL CONDENSATION? 90003 90002 HOW DOES VENTILATION WORK? 90003 90002 WHY VENTILATION IS A GOOD IDEA 90003 90002 VENTILATION TYPES 90003 90002 90027 WHAT VENTILATION OPTIONS ARE THERE? 90028 90003 90002 — Natural Ventilation 90003 90002 — Passive Ventilation — WHAT IS PASSIVE VENTILATION 90003 90002 — MEV 90003 90002 — Heat Recovery Units 90003 90002 VENTILATION BUILDING REGULATIONS 90003 90002 VENTILATING PERIOD HOMES 90003 90002 VENTILATING CELLARS AND BASEMENTS 90003 90002 VENTILATION PRODUCTS 90003 90002 90003 90002 90049 90003 90004 WHAT IS CONDENSATION? 90005 90002 Condensation occurs when moist air comes into contact with air, or a surface, which is at a lower temperature.Air contains water vapour in varying quantities; its capacity to do so is related to its temperature — warm air holds more moisture than cold air. When moist air comes into contact with a colder surface, the air condenses some of its moisture onto that surface. 90003 90002 The air in our homes contains water vapour from cooking, washing, drying clothes and other activities. During cold weather this warm, moist air travels to cooler parts of our homes. The excess water vapour in the air then deposits on cold, impermeable surfaces such as windows and, in some cases, walls.This is called condensation. Condensation can also occur in less visible places like behind furniture, blocked-in fireplaces and underneath laminate flooring. 90003 90057 CAUSES OF CONDENSATION 90058 90002 In order to make homes more energy efficient, they have been fitted with insulation and made air-tight with double glazing. This means that the moist air generated by everyday activities (as detailed above) are unable to escape which leads to condensation. The conditions that determine condensation are as follows: 90003 90061 90062 The level of moisture in the air 90063 90062 The temperature of the air in your home 90063 90062 The surface temperature of the windows & walls and other surfaces 90063 90068 90002 90003 90057 DO I HAVE CONDENSATION? 90058 90002 Condensation is generally noticeable when it forms on non-absorbent surfaces (i.e. windows or tiles) but it can form on any surface. You may not notice condensation until you can see mould growth or notice materials rotting. Any room in a house that is colder will act as a magnet for condensation. 90003 90002 The following symptoms suggest you have condensation: 90003 90061 90062 Steamed-up windows and puddles of water on the window sills 90063 90062 Walls that are damp to touch 90063 90062 Peeling wallpaper 90063 90062 Black spots of mould on walls and ceilings — particularly common in bathrooms 90063 90062 A musty smell 90063 90068 90002 90003 90057 PROBLEMS WITH CONDENSATION 90058 90002 Condensation can lead to a whole range of damp and mould problems.Some of these cause cosmetic damage, some of these will incur financial costs and others can actually be harmful to the health of you and your family. 90003 90002 Condensation can lead to mould which in turn results in mould spores that easily become airborne. When inhaled, these microscopic spores can trigger a range of respiratory conditions such as asthma, dust allergies and hayfever. This is particularly harmful to young child and older people. Condensation is a problem when there is inadequate ventilation, which is also associated with headaches, tiredness, and dizziness, and in extreme cases carbon monoxide poisoning.90003 90002 There are increasingly worrying reports about so-called Toxic House Syndrome, which is when a person’s health deteriorates due to the air quality in their homes. It is related to the large number of potentially harmful chemicals like carbon monoxide and dander in our homes that increase the risk of heart disease and cancer. Proper ventilation is the main way that exposure to these airborne pollutants can be dramatically reduced. 90003 90002 90100 90003 90057 HOW DO I CONTROL CONDENSATION? 90058 90002 Condensation can be controlled through ventilation.There are a variety of different ventilation methods and systems that can focus on single rooms or be installed to ventilate whole homes. 90003 90004 Ventilation 90005 90002 90109 90110 You want to achieve these things with ventilation: 90111 90112 90003 90061 90062 No more condensation 90063 90062 No more damp, stale air 90063 90062 Clean, filtered fresh air 90063 90068 90002 90003 90002 As a good starting point, it makes sense to open windows to allow cross ventilation and take measures to create less moisture.You can put lids on pans when cooking, add cold water before hot water when running a bath, dry clothes outdoors or in a room with a humidity controlled extractor fan, avoid drying damp clothes on warm radiators. You should also regulate heating so that is constantly on at a lower heat. By preventing rapid changes in the temperature, you will help reduce condensation. 90003 90002 Despite taking these initial steps, you are likely to find that condensation is still an issue, in particular in colder months.Correctly installed ventilation systems are the most effective way of stopping condensation. The issue of heat loss is one that is inherent with ventilation and must be addressed by the system. The common ventilation systems include passive ventilation systems, humidity controlled extractor fans, passive stack ventilation, and heat recovery units. 90003 90057 90109 Key Considerations When Looking at Ventilation Systems 90112 90058 90002 90003 90061 90062 Suitability for property — the type of property you are ventilating should determine which ventilation method you use.Bungalows and flats are different than houses. The number of wet rooms, the type of roof, your ability to install ducts and grilles all have an impact. 90063 90062 Costs — this includes initial outlay and running costs. Many ventilation systems have low running costs and the initial costs are offset in fuel efficiency. 90063 90062 Noise — units needs to be quiet, both during normal and boost modes. 90063 90062 Ease of installation — as well as the initial installation, you will want a ventilation system which requires very low levels of maintenance.90063 90062 Compliance with the Building Regulation Ventilation Requirements — it must meet Part F & L England and Wales and contributes towards ‘conservation of fuel and power.’ 90063 90068 90002 90003 90057 Why Ventilation is a Good Idea 90058 90002 Ventilation is not only the best way of preventing condensation in your home, it will also dramatically improve indoor air quality. Most ventilation systems provide health benefits by reducing naturally-occurring Radon gas and carbon monoxide.As well as this, many units are equipped with filters capable of removing up to 95% dust particles and other allergens. This can include pollen filters that can both help you keep cool indoors and enjoy the benefits of fresh pollen-free air. Hayfever sufferers can benefit massively from a place where they can escape pollen and focus on bringing the symptoms under control. 90003 90002 There are four types of ventilation system outlined in the Building Regulations: 90003 90061 90062 System 1 — Intermittent fans and background ventilation 90063 90062 System 2 — Passive stack 90063 90062 System 3 — Continuous mechanical extract ventilation (MEV) 90063 90062 System 4 — Continuous mechanical balanced ventilation with heat recovery 90063 90068 90004 90005 90004 Single Room Ventilation 90005 90057 Intermittent Extraction Fans / Extractor Fans 90058 90002 In the past, it was common for mechanical extraction to be used in wet rooms (rooms with more moisture like kitchens and bathrooms) to remove moisture and bad smells.These fans use more energy and cost more to run but perhaps the main reason they are not recommended is that they remove valuable heat from the home, pumping it outside. The preferred option today is an individual room heat-recovery ventilator. 90003 90057 Single-room Heat-recovery unit 90058 90002 Heat Recovery ventilation systems replace stale moist air with filtered, fresh and warm air from outside. As the stale air is drawn out it passes over a heat exchanger, which traps (recovers) the heat from the outgoing air in order to warm the incoming fresh air.This dramatically reduces the amount of heat wasted and reduces home energy bills. These units provide a continuous air change. 90003 90002 When humidity levels increase, the unit automatically switches to a boost mode. You have the ability to set the humidity level at which boost mode is activated to ensure that condensation does not occur. When humidity levels have returned to an acceptable level the heat recovery unit returns to its standard trickle mode 90110. 90111 90003 90002 The Kair Heat Recovery Unit recovers up to 86% of heat, making it an effective source of ventilation with heat recovery for a single room.The Monsoon Alternate Flow Heat Recovery fan is a continuous flow supply and extract fan with a built-in heat exchanged. It is very good at reducing humidity in single rooms. 90003 90057 Natural Ventilation 90058 90002 You can buy vents that work by using vapour air differences to ventilate. These systems utilise the scientific principle that when the room temperature and humidity are greater internally than those externally, then moist air will ventilate outside. These vents, like the Perma-Vent, contain no moving parts and therefore require zero maintenance.They use a vapour permeable membrane, which allows moist air out of the building without allowing a draught back inside. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90189 90003 90004 WHOLE HOUSE VENTILATION 90005 90002 There are three main methods of whole home ventilation systems that we will cover: Passive Stack, Positive Input and Mechanical Extract Ventilation. 90003 90057 WHAT IS PASSIVE VENTILATION? 90058 90002 Passive ventilation makes use of natural forces like the natural buoyancy of hot air and wind to encourage airflow through your property.Some ventilation systems use a heat exchange unit to capture the heat from the rising warm air before it exits your home in order to heat the incoming fresh air so that you have fresh warm air. 90003 90002 Many passive ventilation systems utilise positive pressure from wind to encourage air movement through the building. The positioning of vents is essential for this model, taking careful note of windward and leeward sides of the roof. 90003 90201 Passive Stack Ventilation 90202 90002 Whole-house passive stack ventilation — or PSV — systems rely on differences in air pressure to create air flow from outside a home to inside and vice versa.Hot air rises because it is a lower pressure than cooler air. The fact that this hot air is buoyant in cooler air means this is sometimes called buoyancy ventilation or the ‘stack effect’. 90003 90002 PSV is all about using these natural forces to ventilate a house by installing stacks and ducts which draw warm, moist air through grilles from a bathroom or kitchen and out through the roof. The ducts need to be installed with swept bends and shallow angles (not sharp angles of 45 degrees or more) to allow air to travel freely.Too many bends will stop the system from being effective as well as peaks and troughs. Similarly the extract grilles need to be free from any obstruction so the moist air can travel freely. Each duct must have its own termination point in the roof. 90003 90002 The air from outside tends to be lower pressure, especially when it is further from the ground, and can get sucked into the home. This fresh air can then be introduced through vents in walls or windows in habitable rooms or ducted in from the roof 90003 90002 Some PSV systems remove air and introduce fresh air via the same vent.Thanks to advances in science these systems provide increased levels of control — such as humidity-controlled extract and inlet valves which open and close according to internal conditions. 90003 90002 90212 90027 IMPORTANT: They need to be correctly installed to ensure they are effective — this means ducts and extract terminals presenting no hindrance to airflow. You need to avoid cross-flow between stacks by ensuring there is at least a metre gap between exhaust points. 90028 90215 90003 90002 PSV systems can be installed with either: 90003 90061 90062 Ridge Terminations / Ridge Extract Terminals / Ridge Ventilators — placed anywhere along the roof ridge 90063 90062 Tile Terminations — within half a metre of the ridge, away from the direction of the wind 90063 90062 Stack Terminations — to protrude above the height of the ridge and be fitted with a cowl 90063 90068 90002 90110 90111 90110 90111 90003 90057 Continuous mechanical extract ventilation (MEV) 90058 90002 MEV operate via a centralised system, usually located in a loft or cupboard, that has a series of ducts that go off to any wet rooms e.g. kitchen, utility rooms and bathrooms. The system then draws moisture-laden air from all of these humid rooms through grilles and takes it to a single discharge point to outside. Many systems will have humidity tracking so that the system kicks in at certain humidity levels, without the need for users to manually increase. Replacement air is provided through background ventilation only. 90003 90057 Positive Input Ventilation (PIV) 90058 90002 Positive Input Ventilation orPIV systems work by drawing in fresh, filtered air from outside in order to ventilate the house.PIV encourages the movement of air from inside to outside from a unit that is usually installed in a loft. These units reduce or eliminate surface condensation altogether by replacing humid stagnant air with fresh filtered air. These systems take full advantage of the benefits of solar gain, distributing the heat in the loft around the property from a central hallway. 90003 90002 The PIV system also removes indoor air pollutants such as carbon monoxide and radon gas. The units and are fitted with filters that keep out pollen and external pollutants such as traffic fumes when drawing outside air in.90003 90002 They are effective at controlling humidity levels throughout your home. Most PIV units are fitted with an internal temperature sensor that continuously monitors the temperature in the loft. This allows the unit to boost the air volume when the loft temperature is above a certain level. If the loft temperature reaches a certain point then the unit will switch to standby mode (no airflow). Once installed, the airflow can be set to suit the house size and, if required, the way it responds to the temperature changes within.90003 90002 The Nuaire Drimaster provides whole home ventilation using the Positive Input Ventilation principle. 90003 90004 Ventilation Building Regulations 90109 90112 90005 90002 The Ventilation of Domestic buildings are covered under Part F and L of the Building Regulations, revised in October 2010. The ventilation building regulations were updated due to the increasing importance of ventilation, in particular in relation to the ‘conservation of fuel and power’ . 90003 90002 The regulations primarily cover installation, design and performance.You must ensure that any ventilation systems installed in England and Wales comply with parts F & L, which we will summarise: 90003 90002 90109 Part F 90112 — 90109 Ventilation 90112 (Planning Portal Part F) 90003 90002 Part F focuses on system performance including: 90003 90061 90062 Airflow Rates 90063 90062 Noise 90063 90062 Ventilation Rates — this is how much the system leaks air 90063 90062 Installation — You can read the Domestic Ventilation Compliance Guide for further tips on installation and how to comply with Part F 90063 90068 90002 90003 90002 90109 Part L — Conservation of Fuel and Power 90112 (Government Planning Portal — Part L) 90003 90002 Part L deals with energy efficiency — covering both heat loss as a result of the system and its impact on energy efficiency and the electricity used to power the system.90003 90002 This covers the regs in details — Vent Axia 90003 90004 Ventilation in Old houses and Period Properties 90005 90002 Many older houses were designed to be self-ventilating with internal rooms being provided with fresh air via chimneys, engineering bricks and gaps around windows and doors. Nowadays with fuel prices so high, the cost of heating a Victorian home can be astronomical — running into the thousands of pounds a year. The temptation is therefore to do whatever you can to reduce these costs, in particular by utilising modern insulation and double-glazing.However, in employing these methods you hinder your home’s ability to ventilate. In stopping draughts and trapping the heat in, you may find you suffer from condensation and damp as well as potentially trapping in harmful gases. So when it comes to older properties, you have to ensure you have a suitable ventilation system. 90003 90057 Installing ventilation in an old house 90058 90002 There is always a key consideration of aesthetics to consider when making any changes to an older or period property.A white plastic box is always going to look out of place in a Victorian property. We would recommend looking at PIV systems that have termination points in the roof — these can include termination points between slate and tiled roofs, minimising the visual impact of the system. You can also look at retrofitting ventilation, making use of existing chimneys or existing holes for an extractor. Manufacturers will hopefully continue to look at improving the appearance of ventilation units and blending them into period features.90003 90004 Ventilation in Basements and Cellars 90005 90002 Cellars and basements rarely benefit from natural ventilation and are prone to condensation and damp issues. It is therefore important to provide ventilation, especially if you intend to inhabit or convert your basement. In order to reduce humidity and the risk of mould in basements, you ideally need to install a duct as part of an MEV system or fit a single room heat recovery unit. 90003 90057 Condensation Control Products and Ventilation Systems 90058 90002 Perma-Vent condensation control vent 90003 90002 The Perma-Vent is an environmentally-friendly unit that works on the scientific principle of vapour air difference to ventilate rooms.It has no moving parts so requires no maintenance. 90003 90002 90109 Nuaire Drimaster PIV Unit 90112 90003 90002 The Drimaster Eco provides whole home ventilation using the Positive Input Ventilation principle. 90003 90002 90003 90057 90109 Permagard — 30 Years of Condensation Control 90112 90058 90002 At Permagard, we stock a range of ventilation systems and condensation control products. If you need help with a specification or more information then our condensation control technical advisors are here to help.90003 90002 Browse our Ventilation and Condensation Control section. 90003 90002 90318 90109 Related Content and Resources 90112 90003 90002 Read our article on 90109 90112 6 Easy Ways to Stop Condensation Build-Up 90003 90002 90003.